Deering Style: Grooming Makes the Man

Deering took care to cultivate his appearance. He maintained a large collection of suits and shoes and went to great lengths to acquire the custom fit and quality of materials he desired.

“I HAVE 11 WHITE WAISTCOATS AND ABOUT 60 COLORED WAISTCOATS”

Deering states that he is told he has 71 waistcoats (vests). Why do you think he found this to be “surprising information”?

A letter from the international hairstyling company.

Letter: July 7th, 1916
From: James Deering, Vizcaya’s Owner
To: Paul Chalfin, Vizcaya’s Artistic Director

Dear Mr. Chalfin:–

While you were here Arthur gave me the surprising information that I have 11 white waistcoats and about 60 colored waistcoats. He evidently wished me to tell you this with reference to the place provided for waistcoats in Florida, and I forgot it.

Yours sincerely, [signed] JD

Mr. Paul Chalfin, 432 Fourth Avenue, New York, N.Y.

“… PURSUE THE QUESTION OF THE SHIPMENT OF THE SHOES FROM LOBB…”

Deering is seeking to find a lost shipment of shoes from John Lobb Bootmaker, a luxury leather goods company that still crafts bespoke shoes out of its shop in London.

A letter written by a man to a woman.

Letter: February 18th, 1916
From: James Deering, Vizcaya’s Owner
To: August Koch

Dear Mr. Koch:

Many thanks for your letter of the 13th inst. If you will pursue the question of the shipment of shoes from Lobb I shall be very grateful to you.

Yours very truly, [signed] James Deering

Mr. August Koch, 597 Fifth Ave. New York

“I OBSERVED YOU WEARING FLORIDA SUIT, VERY THIN GREY MATERIAL.”

Deering’s wardrobe was selected with weather in Chicago and New York in mind. Here, he asks Paul Chalfin to help him procure a suit for Florida’s hot weather.

A letter from the western union telegram.

Telegram: July 24th, 1916
From: James Deering, Vizcaya’s Owner
To: Paul Chalfin, Vizcaya’s Artistic Director

Paul Chalfin 432-4 Ave. New York NY

I observed you wearing Florida suit, very thin grey material. If your tailor has more of this and will sell, please have him send enough for coat and trousers if not too much trouble.

JD.

How does Deering’s fashion reflect the expectations and values of a gentleman in the early 20th century?
Ask James Deering...
TAGS: 
  • 1916
  • 1918
  • Edwardian Fashion
  • Fashion
  • Grooming
  • James Deering
  • Men's Wear
  • Shoes
  • Style
  • Vintage
  • Vizcaya Museum
  • Waistcoats
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